A mirrored bathroom cabinet is a simple, inexpensive addition to your other bathroom furniture or bathroom suite that can increase the sense of light and space within the room, provide you with a conveniently situated mirror for shaving or implementing make-up, and accommodate your medications, beauty products or other odds and ends.

Installing a cabinet on your wall sounds easy, but is it?

Think about where you want the cabinet to be situated. Above the basin is a favorite spot, if you have opted for bathroom furniture using a mirrored door; above the toilet is another location where you can make the most of otherwise wasted wall space. Think about who will use the cupboard (and when there are some kids whose access you want to limit) when deciding the best location and elevation to your cupboard.

The very first stage is quantifying. This stage is critical to your eventual success: in case you do not measure accurately, you might need to drill more than once, and you could also find your cupboard, once secured on the wall, doesn’t hang quite straight. So step, then double check your measurements. Hold, or request a helper to hold, the cabinet in its correct place on the wall. Use a spirit level to acquire the cupboard exactly straight, then draw a pencil line along the top. This line is going to be concealed from sight once the cabinet is set up if you are matching the bathroom furniture so that its top is above eye level. Cabinet Solutions

Measure from the top of the cabinet down to the repairing holes. If your cabinet hasn’t yet been supplied complete with pre-drilled fixing holes, then you will need to drill these yourself, reinforcing the cabinet if necessary to make sure that the holes don’t split with the weight of both cabinet and contents once the cupboard is fixed in position; most stores bought bathroom furniture is supplied pre-drilled to make fitting simpler for the consumer, however. Assess the space between repairing holes, as well. All your measurements should take the center of the fixing hole (not the border ) as the point to which you measure.

Next, measure down from the top line on your wall into the level of the holes. Mark the wall now, and measure horizontally together this new line to make certain your fixing hole marks are in the appropriate location, both in connection with each other and in relation to surrounding things. If you’d like your cupboard to be over your basin, in the middle of the space available, then assess the space from side to side, find the centre point, and measure out an proper level on each side of the centre to indicate your fixing holes, to ensure the center of your cabinet will hang in the middle of the distance. [Kitchen Cupboards Calgary – Cabinet Solutions] Don’t presume that pre-drilled repairing holes will be equidistant from the middle of the toilet furniture – check!

Now it’s time to fasten fixings in your wall from which to hang your cupboard. You will need to use another technique for repairing bathroom furniture onto a plaster and masonry wall, a stud wall, and a sterile lined wall.

On a masonry (brick or blockwork) wall, coated with plaster, so make certain that you use sufficiently long screws so the wall rather than the plasterwork, supports the burden of the bathroom furniture. Drill your pockets, fit wall sockets, then screw in the wall plugs: this should offer a firm mount in most cases. Try to make sure, if you can, that you drill into bricks or blocks instead of to the mortar between them, which will be softer and not as supportive. Drill closely into blockwork, which is often thicker than brick, to prevent over enlarging the holes, and utilize special wall plugs for this type of wall. Check out new ideas about bathroom cabinets calgary.

Stud walling is plasterboard fixed to vertical timber supports (or studs). Fixings for your bathroom furniture have to be screwed to the studs as plasterboard independently won’t be powerful enough to support the weight of this cupboard. Find the place of the studs by tapping the wall: the place with all the stud behind it will sound solid while other areas of the wall will sound hollow as you tap. The screws may be fixed into the wall directly; no wall sockets are wanted.

Dry liner walls are walls where the plasterboard is fixed to the blockwork wall with blobs of adhesive so that it stands out from the surface of the blockwork. Cutting a little section of plasterboard around each repairing hole and halfway via a wooden’spacer’, slotted into this gap, in the wall behind implies that behind the screw you’ll have a safe foundation of solid wood against solid blockwork that will support the screw as it retains the weight of your bathroom furniture. If you didn’t do so, the burden of the cabinet could bring about the unsupported surface to deform. When the cabinet is hung on the wall, then you won’t be able to observe some of the modifications you’ve made to the wall.

If your bathroom wall is tiled, you’ll need to be really cautious as you drill the holes to restore your toilet furniture into the wall. Your drill bit needs to be powerful: either a carbide tipped masonry drill bit or a diamond-tipped drill bit will probably be most suitable for tile. The tough, glazed outer surface of the tile creates beginning to drill the trickiest part. Try scoring an X from the tile to give you more surface traction to get started. Drill slowly, building up speed as you go but bearing in mind that persistence, not brute power, is the key to dull through tile without cracking it. Use cold water to lubricate the cover of the drill bit and keep it from overheating if your tiles are hard or thick. When both tile and wall have been drilled through, add your wall plugs as essential. Make sure that the wall plug is completely from the wall so that only the unthreaded top section of this screw sits in the tile: any expansion of this wall plug from the drilled section of tile could cause the tile to crack.